HOW TO - Anchored Fence Co

STEP BY STEP

BEFORE YOU BUILD: PLANNING YOUR FENCE

Choosing the right fence is just as important as the installation itself. Start by checking with your HOA (if applicable) to confirm what styles, heights, colors, and locations are allowed for your property. It’s also a good idea to talk with your neighbors about your plans—sometimes they may be considering a fence too, and you might be able to share the cost of the section that borders their property.

When planning, think about the overall look of your home and property. You may want a more decorative, visually appealing fence in the front and a more economical option in the backyard. Taking the time to plan carefully ensures you’ll end up with a fence you’ll be happy with for many years.

Finally, check with your local building department for code compliance, since some counties and cities require post holes to be inspected before digging. And don’t forget to call your local utility provider to have underground lines marked before you start digging—it’s not just a good idea, it’s the law.

WOOD PRIVACY

Tools & materials (typical)

Tape measure, chalk line, mason’s line / strong string and stakes
Bottom marking paint (spray paint for ground layout)
6×6 terminal/corner posts (and line posts: 4×4 or 4×6 per your spec)
Post hole digger or auger; shovel; tamper
Fast-setting concrete (you may mix 50:50 with regular high-strength concrete per job) — mix concrete prior to pouring.
Gravel (3–4″ for hole drainage — optional but recommended)
2×4 runners/rails (enough for 3 rails per 6′ section)
Pickets (hand-select for straightness / minimal knots / no rot or mold)
Galvanized ring-shank nails (or exterior screws) and coil nailer or screw gun
Carpenter’s level (48″), 6′ level or plumb/level combo, framing square, string level or line level
Post brackets or hardware if using brackets; tools to mortise if doing mortise connections
Safety: gloves, eye protection, hearing protection, dust mask

Quick legal & safety checks (do these before you dig)

Check with your HOA — styles, heights, setbacks, permitted materials.
Check with your local building department for permits and required post/foundation depths.
Contact your utility company (in the U.S.: call 811) to have underground pipes/wires located and marked prior to digging.
Confirm property lines (survey if needed) so your fence sits where it should.

Step-by-step installation

1) Layout & initial lines — get the job right up front

Identify terminals, gates, and corner posts first. Mark these with stakes. Emphasize the importance of digging and setting your terminal and corner posts first — they carry the load and determine the whole layout.
Run a mason’s line / string line taut around the terminal and corner posts at about 12″ (1 foot) off the ground — this gives a reliable reference for line post placement and helps keep the fence visually straight as you work. (Use a second string at the top of posts later for picket alignment.)
Use bottom marking paint to mark the line post locations along the string. Space the line posts as close to 8 ft on center as you can get (measure and mark each location along the string).

2) Digging post holes

For 6×6 posts: holes should be 10–12 inches wide and a minimum 24 inches deep. Check local code — frost lines or local regs may require deeper holes.
Optional: place 3–4″ of gravel in the bottom of each hole for drainage.

3) Setting terminal & corner posts (critical)

Set your terminal and corner posts first. Place the post in the hole, temporarily brace plumb with 2×4 braces, then mix concrete (fast-setting concrete can be mixed 50:50 with regular high-strength concrete per your note) — mix concrete prior to pouring into the hole — and pour. Slope the concrete away from the post for drainage.
Allow 24 hours for the concrete to set up before attaching any rails to the posts.
While bracing, continuously check plumb. These posts control the line — if they’re off, the whole fence will be off.

4) Set line posts

With terminals/corners set and the string line taut, install line posts at the painted marks. Brace them and set with concrete the same as terminals. Keep them plumb and consistent height. Again, allow concrete to cure (24 hours)before putting rails under load.

5) Mark rail heights with a string line

Use a string line to mark where your rails / runner 2×4s are going to be placed. For a 6-foot privacy fence use 3 rails:
- Bottom rail: 4–6 inches from grade (pick a value and be consistent).
- Top rail: position so that you will have 4–6 inches of picket above the top rail (this gives a finished reveal above the rail).
- Middle rail: placed exactly in the middle of the top and bottom rail. (Example: if bottom rail top edge is 5″ above grade and you want 5″ reveal, the top rail top edge will be at 72″ − 5″ = 67″; middle rail centered between those two.)
Consider grade carefully: use a string across the top to help keep the top line visually straight instead of stepping pickets up and down (or, if you prefer a stepped look, lay out consistent steps). Try to keep things as straight as possible across the top of the fence line so it doesn’t look like a roller coaster.

6) Attach rails / runners

Attach your 2×4 runners/rails to posts using one of the three common methods:
- Face-nailed to the post (fast and common),
- Bracket system bolted to posts (easy replacement and consistent spacing), or
- Mortised into the post (clean look, stronger but requires more carpentry).
Use the string line to set the rails level and at the correct height. Secure firmly.

7) Hand-pick and prep pickets

Hand pick your pickets before installing: check for no rot or mold, minimal knots, and straight boards. Lumber quality can vary even within the same brand so this step is important for a tight, consistent appearance. Replace any warped, rotten, or heavily knotted boards.

8) Install corner pickets and top guide string

Install the corner pickets first (both ends of a run). Once corner pickets are on, run a string line across the topbetween corner pickets — this will be your guide for where all pickets will align at the top.

9) Install pickets

Set pickets tight together as tight as possible before nailing (unless you are installing a gap style). Holding tight ensures a uniform tight privacy look.
Use a coil nailer with galvanized ring-shank nails, or use exterior screws (deck screws) if preferred. Galvanized ring-shank nails are recommended for holding power and corrosion resistance.
Check plumb every few pickets and make small adjustments as you go — frequent plumb checks prevent cumulative lean.
Work in manageable sections so you can keep the string lines and plumb consistent.

10) Gates, caps, and finishing

Install gates on the designated terminal posts using properly sized hardware and check swing/clearances.
Add post caps, trim, and any top rail treatments. Apply stain/sealer or paint to protect the wood (follow lumber manufacturer recommendations).

Important installation tips & notes

Concrete mixing: fast-setting concrete can be mixed 50:50 with regular high-strength concrete when desired, but always mix concrete prior to pouring into the holes and follow manufacturer instructions for water ratios.
Cure time: allow at least 24 hours for concrete to set before attaching rails or applying load. In cold weather, allow longer.
Post hole depth: minimum 24″ is a general rule — in many areas local code or frost depth requires deeper holes — always check local building code.
Grade transitions: when the ground slopes, either step the fence in consistent increments or rake the pickets to follow the grade; be consistent across runs for a professional look.
Quality control: lumber quality varies — inspect every board for rot, mold, and warping before installing. Replace problematic boards.
Fasteners: use galvanized or stainless fasteners for longevity.